The train ride was quick – only 45 minutes from Paris to Reims on the TGV (fast train) and then to Avis for our car. Getting out of Reims was a bit, shall we say tense, with Trav driving (hungry and jonesing for a drink) and me trying my best to navigate with the GPS through a lot of construction that impeded our progress. We finally made it out, but then Trav was driving like a mad man to “get to where we were going” – problem, we didn’t really have a “plan” to go anywhere in particular. This is the wing it part of the trip and I had no plans – so finally he pulled over and I drove from there at a much more leisurely pace to the town of Ambonnay. Once there we wandered toward the Henri Billiot & Fils champagne house, but they were not open so we continued down the street and ended up wandering into a home/champagne place (we hoped) on the street that sort of seemed open. With my rudimentary French we asked the winemaker (we didn’t know at the time that is who it was) for a tasting and after asking us to wait 5 minutes he obliged. It was rather odd, but after we started talking more in English he explained that it was perfectly fine that we were there and we discussed that maybe his signs needed to be a bit better to announce that he did in fact accept visitors for tastings.
While there discussing his wine making operations, two british visitors also showed up and so there were four of us tasting and discussing wine making around the table where they feed the farm help during the growing season – quite surreal actually – but quite nice as well. The wines were quite good and we left with a couple bottles and headed back to see if Billiot was open yet. The front door was still locked when we went by, but an older gentleman came around from the garage entrance and we asked for a tasting – he of course let us in, but he seemed nervous that we only really spoke English and a little French since his English was very little – turned out to be Serge Biliot (his father was Henri) and he was quite nice and we conversed best we could with my French and his English and two more bottles for the “boot” or trunk whichever you prefer.
Our first wine maker – also Serge – gave us a reco for place to stay that also had a fantastic restaurant – Hotel Cheval Blanc in Sept Saulx so that is where we headed to see if they had any rooms available. All in French (whoo hoo me) we negotiated a room and dinner at Cheval Blanc and what a lucky find! The hotel was very nice, clean and the rooms/bathroom was very large with French doors (I wonder what they call them in France?) to a great garden with patio chairs and such. Dinner, well it was awesome, of course that was after much help translating the menu – like I’m supposed to know the French word for guinea fowl – right. We only had like 4 courses, but we were FULL to the gills and making me wonder how us three girls managed 11 courses a couple years ago. And best of all, a KING SIZE bed and finally a good nights sleep after 5 nights in a double bed against the wall (my side)!
Hotel gardens
This AM, a good breakfast with coffee and tea the way you like it (they ask the night before and have it ready at your requested time) along with pastries, toast, cold cuts, cheese, cereal, yogurt and many fruit juices… what a great hotel and a lucky winging it excursion! Where to next? We don't know exactly, guess we'll figure it out in the car...
Stay tuned and Bon Journee!